Modern chanel runway9/19/2023 ![]() Lagerfeld dedicated his spring couture show to sustainability, crafting garments from mosaics of wood and, as in this look, mother-of-pearl - another example of his ability to find beauty in pretty much any material. The 2015 spring collection, for example, was set in a faux Parisian boulevard complete with a protest march for a finale. In the 2010s, the Chanel ready-to-wear shows and sets became increasingly extravagant. Lagerfeld took paper flowers as his inspiration, and the theme was reflected in the clothes. Lagerfeld made a sport (to so speak) out of putting haute branding on leisure gear, from skis to motorcycle helmets and even boxing gloves.ĭevon Aoki in the Y2K version of couture in 1999: crop top and hipster taffeta ball skirt.Ī look from a 2009 Chanel couture show. Stella Tennant in a micro-mini double-C logo bikini in 1996. Lagerfeld’s willingness to blow raspberries at established brand codes the better to recast them as cool. The 1994 spring collection featured the classic Chanel bouclé suits - with ultra-mini skirts in Jordan almond shades, an example of Mr. ![]() Lagerfeld’s Chanel version of power shoulders and Reagan red suiting in a 1986 couture show.Įaster egg alert: Claudia Schiffer in a 1990 ready-to-wear gown featuring costume jewelry versions of the Maltese cross on Verdura cuffs that were Coco’s signature - just as embedding such Chanel references in his collections was one of Mr. Inès de la Fressange and Jerry Hall modeling Mr. Decades later, Anna Wintour would wear the same dress to a Biden state dinner. Lagerfeld’s first Chanel couture collection, paying homage to Coco’s penchant for draping herself in ropes of pearls and gold chains. He helped create and popularize the traveling fashion show, bringing his runway to Salzburg, Edinburgh, Shanghai and Havana dreamed up such viral runway sets as an iceberg ( sculpted from parts of a Swedish glacier), a supermarket and a rocket ship (that actually lifted off) made mini-movies with Nicole Kidman and Kristen Stewart and ultimately helped bring the brand annual sales topping $11 billion.Ī trompe l’oeil dress with faux necklaces and belts from Mr. Splicing classic Chanel iconography - the camellia, pearls, the Maltese cross, bouclé suiting - with a heavy dose of irony and irreverence, he managed to make the brand a pop culture phenomenon, a symbol of classicism and a financial juggernaut. By adopting an approach he summed up in highly questionable terms (“Chanel is an institution, and you have to treat an institution like a whore - and then you get something out of her”), he revived a moribund brand, providing a template for the industry that is still in place today. Lagerfeld got the job that would vault him into the fashion stratosphere: artistic director of Chanel, at that point a brand known primarily for perfume and bourgeois handbags. Lagerfeld went with it, eventually pioneering a “haute fourrure” line (who had even heard of that before?) to go with the ready-to-wear, remaining defiantly pro-fur even as the public mood shifted and other brands turned against the idea of wearing animal skins. His work on the runway was equally experimental, with a wide array of references, including Fendi’s Roman roots and futurism. Lagerfeld created the “FF” logo, which stood for the concept of “fun fur” (as well as Fendi), and then started shaving, dyeing, sculpting and otherwise transforming the material, as well as introducing such pelts as mole, rabbit and squirrel to high fashion. ![]() Lagerfeld, recalled that even as a child, “when Karl came,” it was clear “something special was going on and I should pay attention.” Silvia Venturini Fendi, the daughter of Anna Fendi, who grew up to design Fendi bags and men’s wear alongside Mr. They may have thought they were getting a clever designer, but what they actually got was a lifetime partnership.
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